
HISTORY OF KAYAKING IN AUGUSTOW.
Kayaking in Augustow since the 1930's has always been a
popular activity, having several lakes on your doorstep and
being located at the confluence of two rivers is a ideal
place for practising watersports. The history
of
the kayak in this region dates back to about 1930, nobody
knows the exact dates, but the enclosed photographs give an
indication of what the boats looked like. They were
constructed from wooden materials and up to the 1970's it
was still possible to see these kayaks on the local
waterways. It must be remembered that a number of folding
kayaks were and are still made with a wooden frame , kleppers and Puchs are two of the most famous brands. During
the second world war, the frontline changed in Augustow
several times, once German and then Russian, one hears
stories from older people, that even during this harsh
period, there were those who went kayaking but in order to
do so you needed a special permit from the military
authorities. After the war and with the assistance of the
PTTK (Nationwide organisation which promoted outdoor
activities) kayaking became
an activity for the masses and Augustow was becoming the
centre of all this activity. The war destroyed much of
Poland's infratsructure and even locks on the Augustow canal
were blown up. However the rivers and forests were left in
tact, thank goodness
that agent orange didnt exist at this stage. Kayaking was a
healthy outdoor activity, all one needed was a kayak and a
tent. In this post war period, many kayaking pioneers
explored new waterways and opened up new routes and so the
next stage of development began. One of the most famous
routes is the Czarna Hancza
river, the source of this river comes from Polands deepest
lake (Lake Hancza,108 metres deep), the river is located
near the town of Suwalki, which has a specific micro
climate, which during the winter makes it one of the
coldest places in Poland but that is compensated by its
landscape of rolling hills, dense forest and numerous lakes.
The starting point was next to the 17th Century monastery at
wigry and so this route became very popular. The PTTK in the
early 1950's decided that it would start developing a series
of hostels on the banks of this river and these presently
exist to the present day. This was very basic acommodation,
wooden shacks, an obligatory place for a camp fire, a lage
communal kitchen and eating place, what you would call now
days an eco toilet and at a later stage communal showers.
but it was still more luxurious than a tent. These hostels
still exist and have a very rich tradition
and history and
many people came back year after year. They were
also located in areas which had a special charm, if you
wanted a break from the water then you could go exploring
the woods and pick berries and fungi and generally breath
the scented air which the pine forests created. This river
was seen as the premier river for kayaking, all those
sophisticated urbanites from large Polish cities used to
descend here for the summer, this included politicians,
actors, academics and even the Polish pope kayaked down this
route. In his memory the Czarna Hancza route is known as the
papal route and you will see signs with the official emblem
of the Vatican. But once you were in your
boat it was not apparent who you were and where you came
from, camaraderie was the most important factor and after a
few drinks around the campfire everybody was on the same
level, although some were more level than others. It must
also be noted as seen on the photographs, that many of the
waterways were also used for other purposes and that
recreation was not the primary objective. Timber was
regularly floated down these waterways, it was the fastest
and cheapest method of transportation, timber was a raw
material in this region and was important for the local
economy. I remember when even in the 1970's tugs were still
hauling timber with the men were standing on floating logs
and Iam thinking what happens when he falls in. There still
exist places along the rivers and canals where there were
stopping places so that
the man could rest and eat, they are now used as camp sites.
In the 1980's construction methods for kayaks changed and
fibre glass became the norm and this is the next period of
developemt, out with the old and in with the new. Local
people started manufacturing boats and the kayak was one of
the most simple to make, there were advantages to using
these materials and many companies sprung up to rent out
these boats, they mainly catered for the domestic market.
The boats changed but the route was still the same. At this
stage one can ask the question, why has there been no
mention of the canoe, well basically because it did not
exist. Everybody was still using kayaks, which were O.K. but
were not ideally suited for this type of environment, they
had certain disadvantages, you could not pack a kayak as
well as a canoe, also if you capsized, there was always a
problem of getting rid of the water and after sitting in a
kayak for several hours, there was always a problem with
your legs and backside. We decide at the beginning of this
new century, that it would be appropriate to introduce the
canoe and in conjunction with a local boat building company
we helped to design the first canoes to be introduced into
this area, we are still finding it difficult to encourage
the locals to use canoes but eventually we will get there,
we presently have the largest fleet of canoes in this
region. Iam hoping that down the line somewhere, somebody
will remember who introduced canoes and why and that when we
are long gone, people will still be canoeing in this area.
We are presently entering a new era of canoeing in this
area, with Poland's entry into the E.U. more people from the
west are coming here to experience something new and also
see countries which are off the beaten tourist track, these
areas have rarely been visited by travellers from the west.
We feel obliged to provide you with a history of this area,
this will enhance your experience of paddling along these
rivers and waterways and we would also like to bring to your
attention that this is a unique environment which needs
protection. In this fast developing world of ours there is
constant pressure to bulid a road here, to excavate there,
to cut down a few thousaad trees, to dry out a meadow. This
will eventually destroy many a natural and wildlife habitat
and we will be left with very few places where we can
experience the true outdoors. Thankfully in this region,
there are waterways which are visited by very few people
indeed. The mystery of certain areas has to remain and
secrets to be kept.
CANOEING ROUTES
There are several routes that one can choose from; below I will
provide a brief description of the routes that we suggest that
you may be interested in.
MOONLIGHT CANOE TOURS
Some of us have these strange desires, these may include
watching repeats of the sound of music or going into a shop for
several hours and not buying anything or even better standing on
a platform and watching virgin trains arriving late. However I
have something of the night about me (Some link with my Eastern
European roots and t
ravelling circuses from Romania) and I have
always had this desire to be on the water when darkness falls. I
can already sense the reaction, that there are others out there
who would also like to experience this, I can feel the hairs on
my palms tingling and Iam starting to cough or is that howl.
These short trips will involve paddling a short distance to the
biggest lake in Augustow, lake Sajno. We will choose nights when
the full moon is out. The light will reflect of the calm and
peaceful water and provide a beacon for us. The night alters the
landscape and you will see and hear many things which most of us
have never seen before. From the forest we will here different
sounds, each small movement will be amplified . Once we reach
our destination we will have a lakeside bonfire and a snack and
of course the famous local lunar drink, a sample of moonshine
under the moonlight.
If you are a insomniac and watch lots of wildlife documentaries
about lions drinking from the Zambezi (Dont mention the
crocidiles) at night time, then this tour maybe suitable for you
CANOES AND EQUIPMENT
Now this next bit is quite important, the canoes that you will
be using are made from fiberglass and locally produced, we
believe in supporting the local economy. The canoes are a
standard design, there
is a keel running along the whole length,
so they keep a straight line and are also fairly fast The seats
are made from hardwood frames and webbing, this is very useful
for allowing certain parts of your body to breathe. They
normally accommodate two people but there is an option of a
third bench. We provide two designs of paddles, these are also
locally made. Both are very comfortable and are of export
quality. We can provide dry bags and other containers and we are
also in the process of designing drinks containers which are
easily reachable without having to move about in the canoe and
we will be doing the same for camera equipment and binoculars.
Camping stoves can also be provided so will Bouyancy aids . Why
has he not mentioned the weather, well here we go, during the
summer temperatures can be very hot, at times reaching over 35
degrees centigrade. Rain is a possibility, last year it rained a
lot but the year before we had a drought. Basically as in most
of Europe, weather is unpredictable.
CANOE THE SPRING FLOODS
After the long harsh winters that last for
several weeks,
spring finally arrives and once a year for a relatively short
period, the Biebrza marshes are flooded. The biebrza basin
because of its low population density acts as a flood plain and
all the waters from the northern higher altitudes flow towards
this direction. The town of Augustow is served by the Czarna
Hancza river and the Rospuda river, one from the west and the
other from the east, they flow into the lakes that surround this
town. However all this extra water poses a serious thr
eat to the
people of this town, so there exist two canals, which in effect
run parrallel with each other. The Augustow canal and the Bystry
canal, at this time of year sluice gates on both are open and
the extra water flows at an incredible rate and force down
river. For those of us who live on the banks of the Bystry
canal, all this extra water floods our back gardens, ours is the
only district in town that is below the sluice gate and we are
located in between both canals, but I always have a canoe in the
back garden just in case. All this water eventually via a series
of locks on the Augustow canal and the Netta river eventually
flows into the Biebrza river. For a few weeks this becomes a
huge swimming pool thousands of hectares in size and all of a
sudden we have the biggest bird bath in the whole of Poland.
Fields which are normally cultivated become lakes and attract
thousan
ds of birds, last year a flock of about 500 greylag geese
decided to roost next to our farm. The roads to nearby villages
are cut off .The only way to get about is by boat or tractor
with a very high axle. It is one of these rare sights , where
the sun shimmers on this huge stretch of water and thousands of
birds realise winter is over and now is the time to find a mate.
The beauty of this landscape will leave a lasting impression, I
was fortunate to see it last year for the first time in over fourty years and to put it bluntly I was gobsmacked, sometimes
simple pleasures are more overwhelming than anything else. Just
being there and watching nature take its course is quite
exhilirating and afterwards realising that defined seasons do
have a benefit in terms of creating habitats for wildlife.
The spring floods can be viewed from a boat or from the
shore, we can organise both. Which ever you choose, you will be
experiencing a rare treat.
In due course I will be writing a further description
under the title , The day the pope died , the rivers flooded and
the storks returned.
For further details,
please contact
andrew@frontierpoland.com or form
below
Please contact the following number 0048 501 274 244.
Bookings and further
information can be obtained from our agent in the U.K.
Ella Travel
1 Devonshire Road
Handsworth Wood
Birmingham B20 2PB
0121 554 6922.
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