HISTORY OF KAYAKING IN AUGUSTOW.

     Kayaking in Augustow since the 1930's has always been a popular activity, having several lakes on your doorstep and being located at the confluence of two rivers is a ideal place for practising watersports. The history of the kayak in this region dates back to about 1930, nobody knows the exact dates, but the enclosed photographs give an indication of what the boats looked like. They were constructed from wooden materials and up to the 1970's it was still possible to see these kayaks on the local waterways. It must be remembered that a number of folding kayaks were and are still made with a wooden frame , kleppers and Puchs are two of the most famous brands. During the second world war, the frontline changed in Augustow several times, once German and then Russian, one hears stories from older people, that even during this harsh period, there were those who went kayaking but in order to do so you needed a special permit from the military authorities. After the war and with the assistance of the PTTK (Nationwide organisation which promoted outdoor activities) kayaking became an activity for the masses and Augustow was becoming the centre of all this activity. The war destroyed much of Poland's infratsructure and even locks on the Augustow canal were blown up. However the rivers and forests were left in tact, thank goodness that agent orange didnt exist at this stage. Kayaking was a healthy outdoor activity, all one needed was a kayak and a tent. In this post war period, many kayaking pioneers explored new waterways and opened up new routes and so the next stage of development began. One of the most famous routes is the Czarna Hancza river, the source of this river comes from Polands deepest lake (Lake Hancza,108 metres deep), the river is located near the town of Suwalki, which has a specific micro climate, which during the winter makes it one  of the coldest places in Poland but that is compensated by its landscape of rolling hills, dense forest and numerous lakes. The starting point was next to the 17th Century monastery at wigry and so this route became very popular. The PTTK in the early 1950's decided that it would start developing a series of hostels on the banks of this river and these presently exist to the present day. This was very basic acommodation, wooden shacks, an obligatory place for a camp fire, a lage communal kitchen and eating place, what you would call now days an eco toilet and at a later stage communal showers. but it was still more luxurious than a tent. These hostels still exist and have a very rich tradition and history and many people came back year after year. They were also located in areas which had a special charm, if you wanted a break from the water then you could go exploring the woods and pick berries and fungi and generally breath the scented air which the pine forests created. This river was seen as the premier river for kayaking, all those sophisticated urbanites from large Polish cities used to descend here for the summer, this included politicians, actors, academics and even the Polish pope kayaked down this route. In his memory the Czarna Hancza route is known as the papal route and you will see signs with the official emblem of the Vatican. But once you were in your boat it was not apparent who you were and where you came from, camaraderie was the most important factor and after a few drinks around the campfire everybody was on the same level, although some were more level than others. It must also be noted as seen on the photographs, that many of the waterways were also used for other purposes and that recreation was not the primary objective. Timber was regularly floated down these waterways, it was the fastest and cheapest method of transportation, timber was a raw material in this region and was important for the local economy. I remember when even in the 1970's tugs were still hauling timber with the men were standing on floating logs and Iam thinking what happens when he falls in. There still exist places along the rivers and canals where there were stopping places so that the man could rest and eat, they are now used as camp sites.

     In the 1980's construction methods for kayaks changed and fibre glass became the norm and this is the next period of developemt, out with the old and in with the new. Local people started manufacturing boats and the kayak was one of the most simple to make, there were advantages to using these materials and many companies sprung up to rent out these boats, they mainly catered for the domestic market. The boats changed but the route was still the same. At this stage one can ask the question, why has there been no mention of the canoe, well basically because it did not exist. Everybody was still using kayaks, which were O.K. but were not ideally suited for this type of environment, they had certain disadvantages, you could not pack a kayak as well as a canoe, also if you capsized, there was always a problem of getting rid of the water and after sitting in a kayak for several hours, there was always a problem with your legs and backside. We decide at the beginning of this new century, that it would be appropriate to introduce the canoe and in conjunction with a local boat building company we helped to design the first canoes to be introduced into this area, we are still finding it difficult to encourage the locals to use canoes but eventually we will get there, we presently have the largest fleet of canoes in this region. Iam hoping that down the line somewhere, somebody will remember who introduced canoes and why and that when we are long gone, people will still be canoeing in this area.

     We are presently entering a new era of canoeing in this area, with Poland's entry into the E.U. more people from the west are coming here to experience something new and also see countries which are off the beaten tourist track, these areas have rarely been visited by travellers from the west. We feel obliged to provide you with a history of this area, this will enhance your experience of paddling along these rivers and waterways and we would also like to bring to your attention that this is a unique environment which needs protection. In this fast developing world of ours there is constant pressure to bulid a road here, to excavate there, to cut down a few thousaad trees, to dry out a meadow. This will eventually destroy many a natural and wildlife habitat and we will be left with very few places where we can experience the true outdoors. Thankfully in this region, there are waterways which are visited by very few people indeed. The mystery of certain areas  has to remain and secrets to be kept.

CANOEING ROUTES

 

   There are several routes that one can choose from; below I will provide a brief description of the routes that we suggest that you may be interested in.

MOONLIGHT CANOE TOURS

      Some of us have these strange desires, these may include watching repeats of the sound of music or going into a shop for several hours and not buying anything or even better standing on a platform and watching virgin trains arriving late. However I have something of the night about me (Some link with my Eastern European roots and travelling circuses from Romania) and I have always had this desire to be on the water when darkness falls. I can already sense  the reaction, that there are others out there who would also like to experience this, I can feel the hairs on my palms tingling and Iam starting to cough or is that howl. These short trips will involve paddling a short distance to the biggest lake in Augustow, lake Sajno. We will choose nights when the full moon is out. The light will reflect of the calm and peaceful water and provide a beacon for us. The night alters the landscape and you will see and hear many things which most of us have never seen before. From the forest we will here different sounds, each small movement will be amplified . Once we reach our destination we will have a lakeside bonfire and a snack and of course the famous local lunar drink, a sample of moonshine under the moonlight.

    If you are a insomniac and watch lots of wildlife documentaries about lions drinking from the Zambezi (Dont mention the crocidiles) at night time, then this tour maybe suitable for you

CANOES AND EQUIPMENT

     Now this next bit is quite important, the canoes that you will be using are made from fiberglass and locally produced, we believe in supporting the local economy. The canoes are a standard design, there is a keel running along the whole length, so they keep a straight line and are also fairly fast The seats are made from hardwood frames and webbing, this is very useful for allowing certain parts of your body to breathe. They normally accommodate two people but there is an option of a third bench. We provide two designs of paddles, these are also locally made. Both are very comfortable and are of export quality. We can provide dry bags and other containers and we are also in the process of designing drinks containers which are easily reachable without having to move about in the canoe and we will be doing the same for camera equipment and binoculars. Camping stoves can also be provided so will Bouyancy aids . Why has he not mentioned the weather, well here we go, during the summer temperatures can be very hot, at times reaching over 35 degrees centigrade. Rain is a possibility, last year it rained a lot but the year before we had a drought. Basically as in most of Europe, weather is unpredictable.

CANOE THE SPRING FLOODS

     After the long harsh winters that last for several weeks, spring finally arrives and once a year for a relatively short period, the Biebrza marshes are flooded. The biebrza basin because of its low population density acts as a flood plain and all the waters from the northern higher altitudes flow towards this direction. The town of Augustow is served by the Czarna Hancza river and the Rospuda river, one from the west and the other from the east, they flow into the lakes that surround this town. However all this extra water poses a serious threat to the people of this town, so there exist two canals, which in effect run parrallel with each other. The Augustow canal and the Bystry canal, at this time of year sluice gates on both are open and the extra water flows at an incredible rate and force down river. For those of us who live on the banks of the Bystry canal, all this extra water floods our back gardens, ours is the only district in town that is below the sluice gate and we are located in between both canals, but I always have a canoe in the back garden just in case. All this water eventually via a series of locks on the Augustow canal and the Netta river eventually flows into the Biebrza river. For a few weeks this becomes a huge swimming pool thousands of hectares in size and all of a sudden we have the biggest bird bath in the whole of Poland. Fields which are normally cultivated become lakes and attract thousands of birds, last year a flock of about 500 greylag geese decided to roost next to our farm. The roads to nearby villages are cut off .The only way to get about is by boat or tractor with a very high axle. It is one of these rare sights , where the sun shimmers on this huge stretch of water and thousands of birds realise winter is over and now is the time to find a mate. The beauty of this landscape will leave a lasting impression, I was fortunate to see it last year for the first time in over fourty years and to put it bluntly I was gobsmacked, sometimes simple pleasures are more overwhelming than anything else. Just being there and watching nature take its course is quite exhilirating and afterwards realising that defined seasons do have a benefit in terms of creating habitats for wildlife.

      The spring floods can be viewed from a boat or from the shore, we can organise both. Which ever you choose, you will be experiencing a rare treat.

      In due course I will be writing a further description under the title , The day the pope died , the rivers flooded and the storks returned.

 

For further details, please contact andrew@frontierpoland.com or form  below 

Please contact the following number 0048 501 274 244.

Bookings and further information can be obtained from our agent in the U.K.
Ella Travel
1 Devonshire Road
Handsworth Wood
Birmingham B20 2PB
0121 554 6922.

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